Tips for the Fat Horse; Tips for the Thin Horse
Knowing how, and what, to feed your horse can become one of the bigger challenges in equine ownership. “I don’t feed him anything, honestly, and he’s still fat!” is a phrase commonly heard by vets. Or, on the opposite side of the spectrum is “I pour the feed to him, he’s just a hard keeper.” Just like with people, each horse and his or her needs are different. Breed, genetics, amount of daily exercise, age, and health are a few of the factors that play into the needs of your horse’s diet. Here are a few tips and strategies beyond merely increasing or decreasing your horse’s calorie intake to keep him healthy and happy.
The number one thing to consider is, if you think your horse is abnormally fat or thin, please call your veterinarian to come out and do a general health check. Problems with his mouth, digestive tract, parasites, and disease are among a few of the issues that will need to be eliminated before looking at changing his diet and/or lifestyle.
The number one thing to consider is, if you think your horse is abnormally fat or thin, please call your veterinarian to come out and do a general health check. Problems with his mouth, digestive tract, parasites, and disease are among a few of the issues that will need to be eliminated before looking at changing his diet and/or lifestyle.
The Thin Horse:
Owners often find themselves “throwing the feed at ‘em” without getting the weight gain expected from the amount of feed being provided. The first thing to do? –you got it, have your veterinarian come out to check him. Your vet will be able to discuss the possibility of disease, ulcers, parasites, or bad teeth. Horses’ teeth are continually erupting, and in doing so grind unevenly creating points (which can feel like wearing braces, cutting into the cheeks) and also a hook on the upper front molar and the bottom back molar. These points and hooks prevent your horse from being able to grind their teeth in the natural circular motion while chewing. A common question we get is how horses in the wild deal with this problem. The answer is based around the change in lifestyle we created for them when we first fenced them in. Horses in the wild are constantly eating. And they are eating a diet that is much coarser, made up of coarser grasses and oftentimes things like tree bark, that all help to naturally grind their teeth. Also, the cold truth of it is that horses in the wild don’t often live much past 10 years or so. Because chewing is the first step of digestion, the lack of being able to grind seriously hinders your horse’s digestion ability. Without being able to actually absorb the nutrients that he is consuming, the amount of feed your horse is getting often becomes a moot point. This is especially critical to consider for the geriatric horse. Your horse will begin to lose teeth around the age of 25. As they lose more and more teeth, their ability to chew their grains and also their hay decreases. In this situation a senior, complete feed is crucial. The senior feed is designed to be able to break down and be digested without needing to be chewed first. Because it is a complete feed, it has all the fiber and other nutrients your horse needs. Having your horse’s teeth floated should be part of his routine healthcare, and depending on his breed, lifestyle, and age, should be done around once every 1-2 years.
If your veterinarian rules out any health issues, discuss with her a few possible diet changes. Ensure that you are providing the correct nutrients and in the correct proportions. Fiber, calories, protein, vitamins and minerals, water, and salt all need to be covered. Current research is showing us that the consumption of large amounts of sugars and starches can cause more problems than help, such as colic or laminitis. A better route to take is to increase fat, which is easier for them to digest and absorb. Whenever you change your horse’s diet it is important to discuss the change with your veterinarian, and to do it slowly, at least over a 2 week period. There are high fat, high soluble fiber, low starch feeds out there that are formulated for weight gain. There are also a few supplements that have been developed to provide calories in a palatable form. You can also try adding up to one cup of vegetable oil, or half a pound of prilled, dry palm fat to his meal. You can also take a look at the hay you are feeding. Alfalfa hay is a great hay for weight gain based on its high nutritional content.
Yet another factor to look into is your horse’s lifestyle. Is he on the bottom of the “totum pole” in your herd? He may be getting chased away from hay, or just chased/bullied in general, causing him to burn more calories. It may be helpful to separate him, especially during feeding times. Also, is he a nervous horse? Does he walk circles in his stall or up and down the fence line? Sometimes a “buddy” will help with this problem. We here at Dover Equine recommend mini donkeys whenever possible!
Another problem that some equine owners run into is the picky eater. Most of you probably cannot imagine your horse refusing feed, but it does happen! So how do you get weight on the picky eater? The first issue to look at is your hay. Forage should be the base of any horse’s diet, so before increasing or adding concentrates to his diet, ensure that he is eating plenty of good hay. There are different varieties of grasses used, so possibly your horse may prefer the taste or softness of a different type of hay. Most horses will eat alfalfa hay and pasture, so either increasing turnout time or adding a little alfalfa hay or pellets can help. ***Important!! –If you feed alfalfa pellets, SOAK THEM WELL. Even if the directions on the bag say soaking is optional, SOAK THEM.*** Some of the worst chokes we have seen have been on alfalfa pellets. If this isn’t enough, you can try adding some flavor to his meals to make them more delicious. A bit of molasses or honey mixed into his feed will usually have the same effect it would for us! Again, just like us, each horse may prefer different flavors, so continuing to try different things may pay off in the end. Another trick you can try is to feed your picky horse last. Watching, hearing, and smelling everyone else eating before him may be enough of an enticement to encourage him to eat as well.
Owners often find themselves “throwing the feed at ‘em” without getting the weight gain expected from the amount of feed being provided. The first thing to do? –you got it, have your veterinarian come out to check him. Your vet will be able to discuss the possibility of disease, ulcers, parasites, or bad teeth. Horses’ teeth are continually erupting, and in doing so grind unevenly creating points (which can feel like wearing braces, cutting into the cheeks) and also a hook on the upper front molar and the bottom back molar. These points and hooks prevent your horse from being able to grind their teeth in the natural circular motion while chewing. A common question we get is how horses in the wild deal with this problem. The answer is based around the change in lifestyle we created for them when we first fenced them in. Horses in the wild are constantly eating. And they are eating a diet that is much coarser, made up of coarser grasses and oftentimes things like tree bark, that all help to naturally grind their teeth. Also, the cold truth of it is that horses in the wild don’t often live much past 10 years or so. Because chewing is the first step of digestion, the lack of being able to grind seriously hinders your horse’s digestion ability. Without being able to actually absorb the nutrients that he is consuming, the amount of feed your horse is getting often becomes a moot point. This is especially critical to consider for the geriatric horse. Your horse will begin to lose teeth around the age of 25. As they lose more and more teeth, their ability to chew their grains and also their hay decreases. In this situation a senior, complete feed is crucial. The senior feed is designed to be able to break down and be digested without needing to be chewed first. Because it is a complete feed, it has all the fiber and other nutrients your horse needs. Having your horse’s teeth floated should be part of his routine healthcare, and depending on his breed, lifestyle, and age, should be done around once every 1-2 years.
If your veterinarian rules out any health issues, discuss with her a few possible diet changes. Ensure that you are providing the correct nutrients and in the correct proportions. Fiber, calories, protein, vitamins and minerals, water, and salt all need to be covered. Current research is showing us that the consumption of large amounts of sugars and starches can cause more problems than help, such as colic or laminitis. A better route to take is to increase fat, which is easier for them to digest and absorb. Whenever you change your horse’s diet it is important to discuss the change with your veterinarian, and to do it slowly, at least over a 2 week period. There are high fat, high soluble fiber, low starch feeds out there that are formulated for weight gain. There are also a few supplements that have been developed to provide calories in a palatable form. You can also try adding up to one cup of vegetable oil, or half a pound of prilled, dry palm fat to his meal. You can also take a look at the hay you are feeding. Alfalfa hay is a great hay for weight gain based on its high nutritional content.
Yet another factor to look into is your horse’s lifestyle. Is he on the bottom of the “totum pole” in your herd? He may be getting chased away from hay, or just chased/bullied in general, causing him to burn more calories. It may be helpful to separate him, especially during feeding times. Also, is he a nervous horse? Does he walk circles in his stall or up and down the fence line? Sometimes a “buddy” will help with this problem. We here at Dover Equine recommend mini donkeys whenever possible!
Another problem that some equine owners run into is the picky eater. Most of you probably cannot imagine your horse refusing feed, but it does happen! So how do you get weight on the picky eater? The first issue to look at is your hay. Forage should be the base of any horse’s diet, so before increasing or adding concentrates to his diet, ensure that he is eating plenty of good hay. There are different varieties of grasses used, so possibly your horse may prefer the taste or softness of a different type of hay. Most horses will eat alfalfa hay and pasture, so either increasing turnout time or adding a little alfalfa hay or pellets can help. ***Important!! –If you feed alfalfa pellets, SOAK THEM WELL. Even if the directions on the bag say soaking is optional, SOAK THEM.*** Some of the worst chokes we have seen have been on alfalfa pellets. If this isn’t enough, you can try adding some flavor to his meals to make them more delicious. A bit of molasses or honey mixed into his feed will usually have the same effect it would for us! Again, just like us, each horse may prefer different flavors, so continuing to try different things may pay off in the end. Another trick you can try is to feed your picky horse last. Watching, hearing, and smelling everyone else eating before him may be enough of an enticement to encourage him to eat as well.
The Fat Horse:
“My horse gets fat on air!” We understand your problem, and know it’s a serious one! An obese horse can be as unhealthy as a thin one. Laminitis, cushings, and a tired and grumpy attitude can all be attributed to being overweight. Feeding your horse is a wonderful way to bond with him, and we understand that making them happy with food makes you happy too. But too much of a good thing… After you have ruled out any health problems with your veterinarian, there are a few things you can do to promote weight loss beyond the obvious.
Rather than just decreasing the amount of concentrates he gets, the easiest thing to do is to eliminate the concentrate he gets. Be sure to discuss this change with your veterinarian prior to doing it, but if you think about it, concentrates are not a natural part of an equines’ diet. In the wild, horses travel hundreds of miles a day, and do so eating what is probably pretty poor quality forage compared to what we seed our pastures with today. More forage and less concentrate is most often best. If you just cannot stand to eliminate the concentrates from your horse’s diet, consider not getting the “best” feed out there. Our feed companies have done a great job in offering a variety of high quality products, but sometimes a lower quality feed may be better. There are also vitamin/mineral pellets on the market that are a good alternative to sweet feeds and other grains. A pound or less of these pellets per day is the suggest ration, so even though the bag may be more expensive, one bag will last you weeks. These options will allow you to decrease the calories you are feeding, but still give you and your horse that satisfaction, and almost just as importantly, ensure that your horse comes up to the barn for you to check him over at least once daily. Just be sure to always have both a salt and a mineral block available free choice for your horse.
Another way that you can decrease your horse’s caloric intake is to limit his grazing. Limiting his turnout is one approach, but a grazing muzzle is a wonderful weapon against obesity. Grazing muzzles can look “mean”, and of course your horse isn’t going to love wearing one, but we truly believe they are preferable to being locked up. A horse is built to almost always be eating. His gut is continuously producing acids for digestion, and a horse locked in a stall with a bit of hay in the morning and a bit in the evening is going to have an unhealthy gut compared to a horse who is always munching. Also, your horse is probably going to be happiest out with his buddies, and getting exercise running and roaming in a pasture. A grazing muzzle can limit the amount of grass intake, but keep him mentally and physically healthier.
Another option is to have a dry lot, where he can be out, but without the grass. If you do this, be sure to have your veterinarian do routine sand checks, and treat as recommended, to prevent sand colic. If you are going to stall or keep your horse in a dry lot, a product such as a “nibble net” will be an asset. These products hold hay but have only small openings for your horse to pull the hay out, and therefore slow down your horse’s eating. The hay will last longer and therefore keep his gut and mind healthier, and he will probably waste less as an added bonus. Many people have gotten creative with this idea- some have layered multiple hay nets together, or built actual hay racks with smaller openings. Just be sure to thoroughly think through your ideas- and try to think of any way your horse could get tangled in, or hurt themselves in your contraption! Don’t hesitate to call us and ask our opinion on your idea, or ask us for more ideas.
Just as important as decreasing your horse’s caloric intake is to increase his exercise. A casual ride on the weekend is not going to be enough to shed pounds off your horse. Your horse needs to work up a sweat 4-6 times a week, provided he is sound enough, in order to lose weight and become healthier. Do not do it all at once though! Just like with us, we would not go from being a coach potato to running 5 miles a day, 5 days a week. Begin with just 5 minutes of walk, and 5 minutes of trot. Over the next few weeks increase that by just a few minutes per day. Trotting is the best gait for getting in shape and burning calories; better even than cantering. Long trotting, and collected trotting where your horse really has to use his body is best. Also keep in mind that long straight stretches are better for their joints than lots of smaller circles. If you are having a hard time fitting this routine into your already packed schedule, consider getting help from a friend, or working out some kind of half-lease deal with another equine enthusiast. If you have two horses, and only time to ride one, consider training one to “pony” along behind the other as you ride. Lunging can be helpful in a pinch as well, but is not preferable due to the strain the small circles put on their joints.
“My horse gets fat on air!” We understand your problem, and know it’s a serious one! An obese horse can be as unhealthy as a thin one. Laminitis, cushings, and a tired and grumpy attitude can all be attributed to being overweight. Feeding your horse is a wonderful way to bond with him, and we understand that making them happy with food makes you happy too. But too much of a good thing… After you have ruled out any health problems with your veterinarian, there are a few things you can do to promote weight loss beyond the obvious.
Rather than just decreasing the amount of concentrates he gets, the easiest thing to do is to eliminate the concentrate he gets. Be sure to discuss this change with your veterinarian prior to doing it, but if you think about it, concentrates are not a natural part of an equines’ diet. In the wild, horses travel hundreds of miles a day, and do so eating what is probably pretty poor quality forage compared to what we seed our pastures with today. More forage and less concentrate is most often best. If you just cannot stand to eliminate the concentrates from your horse’s diet, consider not getting the “best” feed out there. Our feed companies have done a great job in offering a variety of high quality products, but sometimes a lower quality feed may be better. There are also vitamin/mineral pellets on the market that are a good alternative to sweet feeds and other grains. A pound or less of these pellets per day is the suggest ration, so even though the bag may be more expensive, one bag will last you weeks. These options will allow you to decrease the calories you are feeding, but still give you and your horse that satisfaction, and almost just as importantly, ensure that your horse comes up to the barn for you to check him over at least once daily. Just be sure to always have both a salt and a mineral block available free choice for your horse.
Another way that you can decrease your horse’s caloric intake is to limit his grazing. Limiting his turnout is one approach, but a grazing muzzle is a wonderful weapon against obesity. Grazing muzzles can look “mean”, and of course your horse isn’t going to love wearing one, but we truly believe they are preferable to being locked up. A horse is built to almost always be eating. His gut is continuously producing acids for digestion, and a horse locked in a stall with a bit of hay in the morning and a bit in the evening is going to have an unhealthy gut compared to a horse who is always munching. Also, your horse is probably going to be happiest out with his buddies, and getting exercise running and roaming in a pasture. A grazing muzzle can limit the amount of grass intake, but keep him mentally and physically healthier.
Another option is to have a dry lot, where he can be out, but without the grass. If you do this, be sure to have your veterinarian do routine sand checks, and treat as recommended, to prevent sand colic. If you are going to stall or keep your horse in a dry lot, a product such as a “nibble net” will be an asset. These products hold hay but have only small openings for your horse to pull the hay out, and therefore slow down your horse’s eating. The hay will last longer and therefore keep his gut and mind healthier, and he will probably waste less as an added bonus. Many people have gotten creative with this idea- some have layered multiple hay nets together, or built actual hay racks with smaller openings. Just be sure to thoroughly think through your ideas- and try to think of any way your horse could get tangled in, or hurt themselves in your contraption! Don’t hesitate to call us and ask our opinion on your idea, or ask us for more ideas.
Just as important as decreasing your horse’s caloric intake is to increase his exercise. A casual ride on the weekend is not going to be enough to shed pounds off your horse. Your horse needs to work up a sweat 4-6 times a week, provided he is sound enough, in order to lose weight and become healthier. Do not do it all at once though! Just like with us, we would not go from being a coach potato to running 5 miles a day, 5 days a week. Begin with just 5 minutes of walk, and 5 minutes of trot. Over the next few weeks increase that by just a few minutes per day. Trotting is the best gait for getting in shape and burning calories; better even than cantering. Long trotting, and collected trotting where your horse really has to use his body is best. Also keep in mind that long straight stretches are better for their joints than lots of smaller circles. If you are having a hard time fitting this routine into your already packed schedule, consider getting help from a friend, or working out some kind of half-lease deal with another equine enthusiast. If you have two horses, and only time to ride one, consider training one to “pony” along behind the other as you ride. Lunging can be helpful in a pinch as well, but is not preferable due to the strain the small circles put on their joints.